Well here are some steps I would take.
1. When the cycle starts the gas valve should make a click and gas should flow.
2. The ignitor should start to buzz. Sounds like a mad bumplebee.
3. You can look at the ignitor light and it will indicate if it is activated. Find the schematic and see if the voltage to activate the ignitor is present. I can send you the manual if you need it.
So if you have spark and gas you should get some flame.
On my speed queens I find that the flame box overtemp and the fan air outlet overtemps go bad often. Try changing these and see what happens. They all contribute to an overtemp circuit that will not let flame happen so this could be a good place to start. You should see 120 volts coming out of the last overtemp button. Again see schematic.
Old model sd32g(I think thats the number):
Replaced the igniter (two different replacements) -still no heat. Also tried swapping out controller. Anyone have any ideas about what to check next?
Terry, assuming this is a SCD32DG. In addition to Duane's point below check the following:
1. First thing our service guys always check is the high voltage lead. More money is spent on replacement iei boards when the problem is often bad return signal from that thick gray wire that looks like a spark plug wire. $8 part.
2. Check if you have a blower safety switch. Would be a two wire molex plug type connector in the junction box with near the ice cube relay, iei board, etc... Don't remember if this dryer has it and there were some changes after serial number DTCK9401011755 so might not be applicable. If you have the plug, maybe someone else can chime in with the wire colors, unplug and bypass with a wire. If dryer heats you need to clean the lint out of the motor, it's a heat issue. Often times people just assume this means they have to replace the motor but usually not. Pet peeve of mine because many servicers will replace the motor for several hundred dollars.
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I believe that plug has one brown wire and one white with brown stripe wire. It's easy to jump the 2 wires together on the half of the plug that does NOT go to the motor. If the stove works (with the jumper wire in place), the points on the internal motor switch are bad or dirty as you pointed out.
"Lead, follow or get out of the way." Larry Adamski